4XFOUR Kit Bash

Home Up 4XFOUR Kit Bash - 2

10-25-01

4XFour-Box.jpg (67856 bytes)I was strolling through the toy section of the local Meyer Store, like a Wal-Mart, today during lunch looking for stuff that might work for my "G" Scale layout.  When I came across these 4XFours battery powered trucks by New Bright.

Now I have heard about people using the Stompers trucks and kit bashing them as a mode of power for some train project.  What I liked about this unit is that it is about 1/3 bigger than the Stompers and has bigger axles.

The question was, is it too big to fit between the rails.  A quick stop at the office supplies section and a nice ruler showed the chassis was 38mm wide.  It would be close but for $4 it would be worth trying.

What do I need for this project?  Good question.

bulletA 4XFOURS Truck by New Bright.  Should not matter which model it is.  I did not look at them closely but I would imagine that they are all the same except for the body.  I grabbed the top one, a Dodge Durango.
bulletA pair of plastic wheels from some old rolling stock.  Maybe some you have left over from replacing them with metal wheels.
bulletA 5/32" drill bit and a drill.
bulletA small flat head screw driver.
bulletA hack saw or a Dremel with a cut off disk.
bulletOptional:  A small scrap of wood.  At least 5 inches long and at least 1 inch wide.  For a axle rim and wheel removing jig.
bulletOptional:  A little bit of grease and a small amount of Epoxy.
bullet2 to 3 hours of free time.

The first thing to do is disassemble the truck.  The body of the truck snaps onto the frame.  The mufflers are part of the frame and stick through the body in the back to hold it on.  On the front there is a small tab from the chassis that sticks through the front bumper where the license plate would be.  It is kind of tough to get off but if you push in the tab in the front with a small flat head screw driver you will be able to get the front part of the body to tilt up.  ChassisClips.jpg (112008 bytes)You then slide the body backwards off of the muffler tabs.  The Push Bar is just slid onto the chassis into a pair of groves.  All you have to do is pull straight up on the Push Bar and it will come off.  The rubber tires come off easily, you just slowly work them off of the chrome rims.  Lastly you remove the battery cover and then the bottom half of the chassis housing comes off by lifting up on the clips that hold it all the way around.  It's not apparent at first but there are 6 clips holding the chassis together.

Parts.jpg (111414 bytes)Once it is all apart this is what you have.  

The front axle has already been taken out of the chassis.  The axles just lift out.  The rubber tires will make great tractor tires to lay outside a barn and the other pieces will probably just be trash.

The next step is to remove the chrome rims from the axles.  You need to be careful with this process so that you don't damage the gears on the axle or move the location of the gear that is pressed onto the axle.  I lifted the axle from its location, then gripping the chrome rims, one in each hand, I pulled in opposite directions.  One of the rims came off in each instance doing this.  (Note:  Be careful when you remove the rims that you don't let the outer gear on the axle just fly off.  The outer gear is loose and slides easily on the axle.)  

PunchOutStick.jpg (46553 bytes)PunchOutRims.jpg (80566 bytes)To remove the other remaining rim I made a quick jig from a scrap of pine wood.  I cut a slot in the wood just a little wider than the width of the axle.  Then I slid the axle into the jig with the rim facing up. I took a 2" 6d Finish Nail, clipped about a 1/2" off the pointed end and used this as a punch to drive the axle out of the rim with a hammer.  It wasn't difficult to punch the axle down out of the rim.  Just take your time and don't hit it to hard.  (Note:  Once again, be careful that you don't move the pressed on gear or lose the outer loose gear in this process.)  

 

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